There are several of these restaurants around the city of Ensenada. They
sell Japanese and Korean food and are favorites in the community, as
several branches of all three chains have sprouted around the city and
beyond. Whenever I see their damaging stereotypical imagery and the offensive play on words of two of them (not lost to those who speak Spanish), it bothers me. Specially because the graphics are kid friendly and get my child's attention. I don't want her to carry on the bad habit many of us Mexicans have perpetuated since colonial times, when the Spanish and Portuguese slave traders used to lump all slaves they brought from Asian countries together and call them all "Chinos" meaning Chinese or "Indios Chinos" to lower their racial status by calling them "Indian" along with "Chinese." This labeling caused entire generations of Mexicans to grow up calling people from most Asian countries "Chinos," regardless of their country of origin.
The presence of these restaurants increased our curiosity. The name of one of the chains, "La Cochinita," even mislead the husband into thinking they sold Chinese food. Talk about internalized oppression! Also when my daughter and I were researching the history of the famous Baja Fish Tacos, we realized the fish preparation for them, consists of tempura battered fish. All this culinary heritage and presence here in the region lead us to do some research.
Turns out back in the 1920's when many immigrants arrived in the city of Ensenada, including my Italian Grandfather, many immigrants arrived from Japan as well. Some came as skilled guest workers and became well loved and respected for their skills as engineers and doctors, others as additional labor for the fishing docks and many undocumented, awaiting entry into the U.S. For what I read, at some point there were as many 1500 of them, in a city of 5000. What happened? Where are they? Us the descendants of Italian, Russian and French immigrants are still here. Where did they go? I asked my Mom if she remembers growing up around Japanese immigrants, as she remembers growing up around many others. What I uncovered was surprising...she said "I remember my cousins and my uncle Mr. Morishita, he was my cousin's father and was married to my Mom's cousin."
Turns out after Pearl Harbor, the Morishita side of our family wasn't allowed to live near the coast or so close to the U.S. Border because our northern neighbor considered them a threat to United States security. The United States asked México to turn them in, to be put in Alta California's interment camps. The Mexican Government refused but was still pressured into removing and holding them in México City and Guadalajara instead. They were given ten days and no relocation assistance to move down south with all their Japanese descendants and Mexican spouses. Including our Aunt and Uncle and their half Japanese half, Mexican children. Their property and business were ceased by the government.
My Italian Grandfather and the rest of his friends were fearful of suffering the same faith but they were spared, (white privilege, I wonder?) What my Mother does remember is that all official teaching of Italian in her household stoped after that and my Grandpa started calling himself by the Spanish translation of his name "Juan" and changed the ending of his last name to sound more Mexican.
Only four Japanese families returned to Ensenada after the war was over. Some are the owners of these restaurants, some own a winery at the local wine country and some like our family members have blended in as much as possible still carrying on their Japanese name and physical traits.
My Mom remembers a conversation with her interned cousin upon her return. She asked how she liked México City? Turns out not so much, since she lacked the freedom to play in nature like my Mom. She had been looked in an apartment complex the whole time
